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Chapter ten — A Town Called Corleone

Ponzano, the Veneto, 1996

This time Toscani photographed fifteen members of the family in a smiling group. The difference between this and other family groups was that everyone in this picture was wearing the tight jackets that are used in mental hospitals to control violent patients.

As Luciano explained," The idea was to show a united family, and a family which, though it is not crazy, is also not too serious... and how a certain type of madness can produce great things."

Toscani's Colors magazine moved its offices from New York to Paris. The latest magazine featured "war." The pictures included a dead African with the top of his head blown off, and the legs of somebody who had been hit by an exploding bomb. The magazine, with these images of other people's suffering, was on sale in Benetton stores. This led some photographers and other people to question whether the horrors of war should be connected with United Colors of Benetton and Sisley.

Toscani's spring and summer billboard campaign for the United States showed an image of three human hearts, the same color but labeled differently by race. This image was first shown at the same time as the international SOS Racisme conference to mark a United Nations day against racism. This was held at Fabrica, with forty people from around the world.

Fabrica and Colors were still the wild parts of the Benetton image-making process. Unlike the carefully designed public image of the family in the jackets, this was where the true creative "madness" was.

London, England, 1996

The golden age was over for Benetton in London and in cities across the country. Gap stood where Benetton had been in Hampstead High Street and on many similar sites. Two of Benetton's biggest license holders had gone out of business within two weeks of each other. One had run some of the best stores in London, and had failed with losses of $400,000. The other owed companies, including Benetton, $200,000. There had also been arguments between the agent and the licensees. On this occasion, there was no advertising campaign to blame, and other British store owners were increasing their orders by between 20 and 30 percent. It was time for Luciano to "clean the network" in England.

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